The national dish of the Languedoc region of France is cassoulet. It's a dish that is difficult to avoid in local restaurants as I discovered when I spent some time on holiday there a few weeks ago. But there are cassoulets and there are cassoulets.
The traditional dish is made from haricot beans from Pamiers and Cazères, goose leg (or duck), goose fat, pork hock, Toulouse sausage, bacon rind, vegetables and seasoning and it should be cooked for several hours in an earthenware pot after a long period of preparation.
Some versions have a sprinkling of bread crumbs which form an attractive golden crust. According to Larousse Gastronomique, purists insist that the gratin crust should be broken several times before serving (seven times in Castelnaudry and eight times in Toulouse). I ate six cassoulets in ten days in the Languedoc and no two were alike.
The best was in Castelnaudry but at least two were sham tourist cassoulets which were little more than overseasoned boiled haricot beans with a duck leg and a sausage added for effect. The other three were poor imitations of the Castelnaudry best of breed. They looked authentic enough but having tasted the real thing I could dismiss them as frauds.
It's rather like freedom of speech in this country. The version offered up by our local media looks genuine enough but is it the real thing? If I had only tasted the sham tourist cassoulet I would obviously be convinced that this was how a cassoulet should be made and served. But because I took the trouble to conduct an empirical study of cassoulet I'm pretty certain I can spot an imposter.
I've been a freedom of speech gourmet off and on now for about 45 years and Iike to think I've become something of a connoisseur. For example, if you genuinely respect the concept of freedom of speech it has to be unconditional. You have to put up with the good and the bad. Freedom of speech will, on occasions, be offensive to somebody but that's the flip side of the freedom coin.