Yesterday we were out in the bush, some 220 kilometres from Bulawayo speaking at a MDC rally in a tiny village. A fairly large crowd had gathered with villagers walking into the site from many kilometres in every direction. After the meeting we had a meal together and then they walked home and I drove back to the City.
When we set out I had no idea that we would find ourselves at the site where some 114 years ago, a small detachment of part time soldiers would attempt to capture the King of the Amandebele people who had just fled his capitol, Gubulawayo, some 10 kilometres from where I write today. The site was just 500 metres from the rally and afterwards we walked across to it and were told the story of that battle - the final battle with the Ndebele that opened the way to white settler domination for the next 80 years.
The site is vandalised and all that remains is a small monument to the 34 white men killed in the battle and a nearby mound of soil that holds the mass grave of up to 400 Ndebele men killed at the same time. Three battles were fought in that brief campaign - the first at Shangani, the second at Gubulawayo (the 'Place of Slaughter') and then the final skirmishes over the other side of the Shangani River in the Lupane District.
Lobengula, the King of the Ndebele was fleeing his home which had been captured and burnt, with four regiments or 'Impi's' - each comprising several thousand men. These were the finest fighting men of the region at the time and had dominated much of central Africa for the 19th century. Now that domination was confronted by new threat - white men with modern weapons. After the final battle, Lobengula travelled north and died near the Zambezi where he was buried with his personal possessions.
The Nduna's who led the Ndebele regiments in the fight disembowelled those killed to allow their spirits to depart but otherwise did not do anything to the bodies simply recording, that 'these were brave men' and leaving a single man at the site to tell the troops that were following up, what had happened. The remains of those men are now buried in the Matopo Hills outside Bulawayo.