We've lost our way.
Dear Family and Friends,
On the outskirts of Harare the traffic is backed up, nose to tail, for nearly twenty kilometres by six thirty in the morning. A country awash with cheap, second-hand Japanese cars clogging single lane highways and the smooth flow of traffic held up by police who repeatedly wave off every single passenger minibus. Money but not tickets change hands meanwhile a rash of traffic offences are happening in plain sight while the same police turn a blind eye. We wonder but say nothing.
In a busy residential suburb of Harare along the roadside where children walk and cycle to nearby schools and people go backwards and forwards to shops, medical facilities and work, a platoon of soldiers wearing full camouflage and carrying rifles can be heard long before they are seen. Everyone stops and listens to the chanting and singing, wondering if something peaceful or frightening is approaching. As the soldiers come into view, rifles swinging, people move well out of the way. Why must they do this through a residential area and why must they carry guns? We wonder but say nothing.
In the centre of Harare, sirens are wailing. Is it an ambulance or something more frightening you wonder but when all the cars start pulling over, double and triple parking on the roadsides, in the middle of intersections and even pedestrians stop walking, you know it's the Presidential cavalcade.
Motorbike outriders race in at terrifying speed, jump off and run at you, pointing and gesticulating at any vehicles that haven't quite got far enough off the road. Then the limousines come, the support cars, ambulance and then the open trucks filled with soldiers, guns pointing at you, each man sitting with one leg hanging over the side of the truck. Everyone stares as the car inscribed: ‘Zim 1' passes by. Faces speak volumes but out loud we say nothing.